Dog bites are a serious problem in the United States. Each year, 4.7 million people are bitten by dogs, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC). Around 17 percent of these people require medical care. And in approximately 10-20 tragic cases per year, the bite victim is killed. The CDC has labeled dog bites in America an "epidemic."
The ten breeds involved in the most lethal attacks over the past ten years are pit bulls, rottweilers, German shepherds, huskies, malamutes, Dobermans, chow chows, St. Bernards, Great Danes, and Akitas.
In response to this growing problem, some communities have banned ownership of certain dogs that are perceived as dangerous, particularly pit bulls and rottweilers. Are some breeds really more dangerous than others?
Breed characteristics
t's difficult to determine just how much a dog's genetics determine his behavior, just like it's hard to know how much of a person's personality is nature and how much is nurture. It's true that some breeds were bred to perform tasks that require more aggression than others. Pit bulls, for example, were bred to fight dogs and other animals for sport. Some people theorize that pit bulls' genetics make them more prone to violence than other dogs, and pit bulls have in fact been involved in more fatal attacks than any other dog over the past 20 years. But breeds that are not bred for aggression, including golden retrievers, cocker spaniels, and Yorkshire terriers, have been involved in fatal attacks as well.
It's also true that some breeds simply have more ability to injure people than others do. Though it's no more likely to bite than a smaller dog, if it does bite, a Great Dane can do much more damage than a Maltese, for example. (Even very small breeds can be dangerous to children, however.)
A study performed by the American Veterinary Medical Association, the CDC, and the Humane Society of the United States, analyzed dog bite statistics from the last 20 years and found that the statistics don't show that any breeds are inherently more dangerous than others. The study showed that the most popular large breed dogs at any one time were consistently on the list of breeds that bit fatally. There were a high number of fatal bites from Doberman pinschers in the 1970s, for example, because Dobermans were very popular at that time and there were more Dobermans around, and because Dobermans'size makes their bites more dangerous. The number of fatal bites from pit bulls rose in the 1980s for the same reason, and the number of bites from rottweilers in the 1990s. The study also noted that there are no reliable statistics for nonfatal dog bites, so there is no way to know how often smaller breeds are biting.
Owner responsibilities
This study supports what many veterinarians have believed for years: nearly any dog can be aggressive or nonaggressive, depending on his training and environment. Owners play a big part in making sure that their pet is safe around other people. There are several steps you can take to help ensure that your dog isn't dangerous.
Restrain your pet.
Unrestrained dogs cause about 82 percent of all fatal bites. Keeping your dog on a strong leash whenever you're in public is a big first step toward preventing bites. Also, don't encourage strangers to interact with your dog; strangers and a strange environment may startle him. If you leave your dog alone outdoors, your yard needs to be enclosed with a six- to eight-foot fence, depending on your dog's size.
Socialize your puppy.
Once your pup has been fully vaccinated and he has your veterinarian's okay, take him to puppy classes, the park, and the pet store. Take him anywhere where he can interact with people and other dogs in a nonthreatening environment. Praise him when he interacts well with others.
Spay or neuter your dog.
Intact (non-neutered) male dogs are responsible for approximately 80 percent of fatal bites. When dogs are altered, they lose some of their territorial insticts, including a lot of their territorial aggression.
Train him not to bite.
Dogs will mouth, chew, and bite everything from your hands to your furniture until you teach them that it's inappropriate. If your dog is biting you, or growling at you or other family members, distract him with a quick sound, such as a clap or a sharp "ow!" Then redirect his attention to a rawhide or chew toy. And be sure to reward him when you catch him chewing on the right things.
Watch your dog's behavior.
This may be the most important part of preventing your dog from biting. It's easy for owners to be in denial that their sweet, furry Fido may be a threat. But if your dog exhibits any of the following behaviors, it's time for your veterinarian's help: growling at, snapping at, or biting family members; growling or snapping at strangers; or extreme fear of strangers.
If you see signs that your dog could be aggressive or dangerous, you can ask your veterinarian to refer you to a veterinary behavioral specialist. While your dog is being treated for aggression, be careful with him in public. Be sure to warn strangers to use caution if they interact with him.
Following these directions won't guarantee that your dog won't bite, but they'll certainly make it less likely. Any dog that is well restrained and well trained can be perfectly safe, regardless of breed. The truth is, an irresponsible owner is much more dangerous than any dog.
(training issues)
Who can fathom the mind of a puppy? Squirrels drive them crazy, garbage is their favorite snack, and immediately after chewing your one-of-a-kind, handmade leather jacket into confetti, they can give you a look of such innocent love and adoration that you forget all about it. This kind of behavior can baffle and frustrate even the most conscientious of dog owners, and rightfully so. When you bring a puppy home, she becomes part of your family; you need to be able to trust her with your home, your belongings, and even your children. That's why controlling your puppy's behavior is the key to having a peaceful relationship with her.
To have a dog that makes a good, dependable companion, you're going to have to spend some time training. There's no other way for your puppy to know that chewing on an old knotted sweat sock is acceptable, for example, while chewing on the Irish lace tablecloth is not. She needs to be taught appropriate behavior calmly, gently, and--most important--consistently. As soon as you get your pup, you can start teaching her how to obey you, how to act around people and other dogs, and generally to be the best-behaved dog ever.
The alpha owner
Though we'll never know exactly what your pooch is thinking when she chases her tail until she gets dizzy, we do have some insight into how dogs think about relationships. Wild dogs live and hunt in packs, and to your dog, you and the other members of your family are fellow pack members. This is an important model, because in every pack there are structured power relationships between members. If dogs have no dominant--or "alpha"--leader in their human "pack," if they learn that they can jump up on the couch when they want, drag you down the street on the leash, and get treats when they beg for them, some of them may decide they are running the show. Puppies who are never disciplined may begin aggressively testing their boundaries when they reach doggy adolescence. They may start ignoring commands, jumping up where they're not supposed to jump, and protecting their food or their "territory" with growls. In extreme cases, they can begin biting.
In order to have a peaceful, manageable relationship with your dog, it's important that you establish your position as the leader from the beginning. You do not have to use physical intimidation to do so, however. Some trainers have recommended that owners establish their dominance through a show of physical force ranging from an alpha roll--flipping a dog over so her belly is exposed--to actually biting a dog on the muzzle. This can leave a dog feeling threatened and defensive, and may even provoke an attack. You don't need to raise your voice either; shouting can also make dogs nervous and provoke aggression.
The fact is, these aggressive displays of dominance aren't necessary. Most dogs are perfectly happy submitting to a leader; they actually gain confidence and a sense of security from having someone to follow. The job of a good pack leader is to project a sense of strength by using a deep, steady voice, reacting calmly to situations that make the dog nervous, and giving rewards only for good behavior. Training your dog to sit and lie down is helpful as well. Having her repeatedly take a lower, submissive position at your command reinforces your dominant position. If you're still having a hard time, ask your veterinarian about special exercises designed to establish your dominance without aggression.
The social life
Socializing is one of the most important things you can do to train your young dog. Puppies, like babies, are like sponges--ready to absorb all kinds of information about their world. In the first months of their lives, they learn the right places to sleep to catch the late afternoon sun and that the sound of the can opener means dinner time. In this same period, it's your job as a pet owner to teach them to bond with people and with other dogs and to be comfortable in unfamiliar situations. This is one of the most important things you can do for your fuzzy family member. The less afraid your puppy is of strange people and animals, the less likely she is to act defensively and attack another dog or even a child.
The socialization of puppies begins between three and four weeks of age, before most people bring their new pets home. This means that some of the work is out of your control. If your puppy has been raised by a careless owner or breeder, you may have an uphill battle to fight when you get her home. The good news is, she will continue the socialization process until she is about 12 weeks old, so you have plenty of time to give her good experiences. First of all, make sure she bonds with you and your family. Pet her, groom her, play with her, talk to her, and just generally give her lots of love. Show her that she can depend on you for affection, food, and gentle leadership.
Once your pup feels safe with you and she's had all her vaccinations, you can introduce her to the big, wide world. Take her to lots of new and exciting places--the park, a friend's house, or dog-friendly stores. Make sure she has plenty of chances to meet kind people and play with well-socialized dogs. Try to make trips to the veterinarian fun, with plenty of petting from you and the friendly veterinarian and technicians. Introduce her to children, too, in a well-supervised environment. Show the kids how to speak calmly to her and pet her gently.
If you notice your puppy acting nervous in a new situation or starting to bristle at a strange dog, try not to scold her. Raising your voice will only make her more tense. Trying to comfort her will backfire too. If she gets a lot of petting, cooing, and attention every time she's scared or aggressive, she'll learn that reacting this way is a good thing. Instead, distract her as best you can. Toss a ball or a chew toy to her, or start playing her favorite game. When she gets absorbed in the game and starts ignoring the people or the dog that scared her, give her lots of praise. Soon she'll associate the scary situation with fun and playtime, and she'll become a canine socialite.
Think positively
When most dog owners think about training their dog, they think in negatives. They want their puppy not to chew the furniture, not to piddle on the carpet, and not to jump up on guests. This can get a little confusing from the puppy's point of view, however. Imagine you were a puppy home alone, and you spent most of your day chewing on some loafers and spreading garbage around the kitchen. Then you nap for an hour and meet your family at the door when they come home. Suddenly they greet you with lots of yelling and shouts of "No!" What did you do wrong? Was it the chewing or meeting the family at the door? What were you supposed to do instead?
The key to keeping your puppy from doing what you don't want her to do is giving her a positive alternative--teaching her what you do want her to do. For example, if you see your puppy dancing anxiously around the living room like she needs to go out, get her outside in a flash. Stay near her the whole time she's out, and reward her with praise and a treat as soon as she relieves herself. This teaches her that going outside is a good thing. If you catch your puppy chewing on something you don't want her to chew on, distract her with one of her "good" chew toys. Whenever you catch her chewing on one of her toys, reward her. That's the key to effective training--try to catch your puppy doing something good, like sitting still instead of jumping up or sleeping on the floor instead of the bed. Make a point of noticing these behaviors and rewarding them with attention, praise, or treats.
Training is a gradual process, and it can be a difficult road to walk alone. It's important that your entire family commits to a training plan, that you all agree to respond the same way when your dog misbehaves as well as when she behaves perfectly. Remember, when you train, you need to be persistent, and above all, patient. Your puppy's going to make a lot of mistakes, and she may just destroy a few of your belongings, but she's mostly just eager to please you. She needs your love, attention, and guidance to be the good dog you know she can be.
It is natural for puppies to explore their environment, however, their natural curiosity often leads to frustration on your part when they chew your favorite slippers or dig up your flower bed. While you may be tempted to punish your naughty pup, reinforcing good behavior is much more effective and will keep you and your dog happier.
Chewing
Destructive chewing may be related to anxiety. It is important to train your dog to lie on its bed or in a crate, rather than constantly at your side. Teaching your dog that he or she cannot always receive attention on demand may lessen anxiety. For dogs with separation anxiety, begin with short departures and then gradually increase the length of your time away to lessen their anxiety.
Anti-chew sprays, citronella oil or a small amount of cayenne pepper mixed with water can be used to deter your pup from chewing on household items.
Chew toys are a great way to keep your puppy busy as well as relieve pain associated with teething. Present your puppy with a variety of toys to determine which types he likes best, but never give your dog chew toys that resemble household items that you do not want him to chew, i.e. a toy shaped like a shoe. Rotate different toys to keep your puppy’s interest and reward your puppy with praise when he chews on toys.
Digging
There are many reasons why dogs dig: to cool off, search for rodents, bury and recover bones or other toys, escape confinement or just for fun. Dogs may be more prone to dig when they are left alone without another diversion. To keep your dog stimulated and occupied, provide him with chew toys and increase play and exercise time to tire him out. You may also consider getting a second dog.
You can discourage digging by changing the groundcover (replace dirt with rocks or concrete) or use remote punishment (turn on a sprinkler or toss a tin can filled with pebbles next to your pet to startle him). If your dog continues to dig, you may want to provide a digging area for him to reinforce appropriate digging.
Set rules immediately and stick to them.
Avoid situations that promote inappropriate behavior.
Observe the pet and provide what it needs to be cared for and attended to.
Supervise the new pet diligently through undivided individual attention and training, and restrict the pet's access to a limited area of the house until training is complete.
Encourage good behavior with praise and attention.
Correct bad behaviors by providing positive alternatives. (A toy for a slipper, scratching post for the sofa.)
Never physically punish or force compliance to commands. This may lead to fear biting or aggression.
Don't play rough or encourage aggression or play biting.
Expose pets to people, animals, and environments where you want them to live.
See your veterinarian if serious or unresolved behavior problems
exist.
Does your dog growl or bark when a stranger approaches your house or when something goes bump in the night? If so, you’re not alone. Most dogs will vocalize when they are exposed to new or different situations, including strange people or animals entering their territory; being separated from their pack, mother or even your family members; or new or alarming sounds. Dogs may also bark or growl when they see prey, such as squirrels, and they may bark for attention, food or if they are anxious.
Dogs often growl when they are fearful or trying to assert themselves in a situation. If the dog’s fear or assertiveness is alleviated by growling or barking, the dog will learn that his behavior is acceptable and the behavior may become more frequent or severe.
Some medical problems may cause growling or barking and older pets experiencing senile changes may have barking problems. Intense and continuous barking may be considered compulsive. Check with your veterinarian to evaluate your pet’s barking or growling problem. Drug therapy and behavior training may be helpful in reducing barking for pets with medical, geriatric and compulsive disorders.
Socialize Your Puppy
Acclimate your puppy to a variety of different people, environments, situations and noises to help lessen anxiety as your puppy grows. Make sure your puppy spends time alone so that he doesn’t develop separation anxiety while you are away from him (see Dogs and Separation Anxiety). Proper training is essential to preventing behavior problems, such as growling and barking. Ask you veterinarian for more information about puppy training and see Bringing Up Puppy.
Correcting a Barking or Growling Problem
Correcting a barking or growling problem first requires that you have effective control over your dog. Once you have achieved this, you can begin to train your dog to lessen his barking or growling behavior by using rewards for quiet behavior. Punishment is generally ineffective in correcting barking problems. Too much punishment may even exacerbate the behavior.
Begin your training with situations that you can easily control (such as a family member making a noise that causes the dog to bark) before moving on to difficult situations (such as a strange animal in your yard). When your dog barks at the stimuli (for instance, a doorbell ring), immediately interrupt the barking.
Several products are available that may interrupt barking. Devices activated by owners, such as water sprayers, cans with coins or pebbles, audible alarms and ultrasonic trainers, are usually effective in disrupting barking and getting a quiet response from the dog.
Bark-activated products are also effective because they will immediately respond to barking. Off-collar, bark-activated alarms or water sprayers will train your dog to stop barking in specific areas. Bark-activated collars are useful when your dog doesn’t bark in single, specific areas (the collar will respond when your dog barks, no matter where he is located at the time). Audible and ultrasonic collars are sometimes effective in stopping barking, but they are rarely a completely reliable deterrent. Citronella-spraying collars are effective with most dogs. Electronic shock collar should be a final option since they have the potential for injury or abuse. Make sure to discuss these options with your veterinarian to find the one that will work best for your pet.
During training, barking must be interrupted right after it begins for the training to be effective. Repeat this process until the dog no longer barks or growls at the situation, person or sound.
Reward your dog when, at your request, he has stopped barking. Only reward the dog when he is quiet and gradually increase the amount of time that the dog needs to be quiet for him to receive a reward (such as a treat).
As the barking or growling problem decreases, make sure to direct your dog to more appropriate behavior, such as play, and the problem should lessen over time.
Does Spot love you so much that when you leave she can't stand it? Does she get so upset that your rugs, furniture, and anything else she can reach or knock down show signs of her affection? If she is a well-behaved dog when you're home and only turns into a nut case when she can't be with you, then Spot is probably suffering from separation anxiety. It is estimated that 10-15 percent of the canine population experiences some type of separation anxiety. Separation anxiety is tied to a dog's natural instinct to be part of a pack, which explains why cats do not seem to suffer from this problem. But there are many things you can do to help your lonely pooch out. She certainly deserves the help; after all, she acts out because she's longing for you.
The difference between separation anxiety and just plain bad behavior is easy to spot: pets with separation anxiety only act out when they are unable to get to their owners. In severe cases, anxious pooches will act out even when their owner is simply in another room with the door shut. Common ways of acting out include destructive behavior, excessive barking, house soiling, attempts to escape, loss of appetite, inactivity, sadness or depression, and psychosomatic disorders such as diarrhea, vomiting, and excessive coat licking. Also, a dog suffering from separation anxiety will often closely shadow her owner when they're together.
Why Spot?
Why does your dog suffer from separation anxiety while your neighbor's dog is fine? The possibilities abound. Some dogs simply do not ever gain enough confidence in themselves to be on their own. For some, it's because they were left alone for too long when they were puppies. Others have had the misfortune of being abused or neglected. Then there are the poor pups who are pushed from home to home until they finally end up in an animal shelter; needless to say, they might be afraid of being left again.
Often a beloved pet is fine for years, then suddenly begins to act out. If her behavior seems inexplicable, take a look at the changes in your lifestyle that occurred around the same time Spot decided she loved the taste of your favorite chair. Maybe Mom went back to work, or the kids left for college. Or maybe you got a new job requiring longer hours. Whatever the reason, Spot is spending more time alone, and she doesn't know what to do with herself. She worries: "What if they don't come back?" When the stress is more than she can take, she acts out.
Taming the trauma
Dealing with separation anxiety is different than dealing with just the problem behaviors. First, you must learn to check your anger at the door. Punishing Spot will not fix the problem--it will create a bigger problem. Once she associates your absence and return with punishment, her anxiety will increase. There are many different ways you can help your dog deal with her fear. Your number one goal is to teach Spot that you can be trusted to come back. One of the first exercises to practice is sit and stay. This will prepare your panicky pet for practice departures. Make Spot sit and stay while you move from one place to another. If she obeys, give her a treat. If she couldn't stand it and didn't stay, try it again for a shorter time and distance. Once you find something that works, even if it's just moving from the living room to the dining room, you can slowly increase the time and distance.
The next step is to change your habits. Think about your routine. Do you do the same things every time you walk out the door? Kissing your spouse, grabbing your bag, closing your briefcase, or even picking up your keys can tell Spot that you're leaving. She associates your preparations to leave with her destructive behavior. Your goal is to change your pattern, teaching her new cues that let her know that you're always coming back and help disassociate her learned, destructive behavior from your absence. Do something unusual and different from your normal routine: turn on the radio or television, or give Spot a treat. There are many toys and treats designed to entertain your pet while you're out. A Kong toy stuffed with food is a popular option--she will spend many distracted hours working to get the food out.
New cue review
Begin using your new cue when you start doing practice departures. The key here is to take baby steps. When you first give Spot the new cue, leave the house for just a minute or two--a time short enough that you know Spot will be all right. When you come back, avoid a big fuss and simply go about your business. The expectation of a big to-do when you come home only increases her anxiety level. The principle behind practice departures is the same as that of sit and stay; you're teaching Spot that when you leave you will come back. Slowly, you will increase her confidence in you and in herself. Continue to practice your departures all day long for increasingly longer amounts of time. Stay away a couple of minutes longer each time, but remember to take it slow. If Spot becomes upset at a certain point, cut the time in half and be patient. For example, if Spot acts out after two hours, then decrease the time to one hour and work your way back up from there. Repeat the cycle over and over again, until Spot is confident that you will always return.
Ideally you will be able to spend at least a week gradually easing Spot into a new level of self-confidence. If you don't have that much time, try to begin early on a Friday evening and continue the practice departures throughout the weekend. Clomicalm(R), a new anxiety drug from Novartis, can help calm your anxious pup if you don't have enough consecutive hours to work on correcting Spot's behavior. Clomicalm is not a sedative; instead, it is designed especially for dogs with separation anxiety. Dogs take a daily dose to relieve some of their anxiety, making it easier for them to learn new, better behavior. Once the new behavior is learned, the medication can be discontinued. As with any drug, be sure to visit your veterinarian to ensure the medication is appropriate for your specific pet.
Another strategy to help you deal with the problem is to take Spot out for a good walk before you leave the house. Not only will you spend some quality time together, it will also help tucker her out, making it more likely she will spend her time away from you sleeping. Another benefit to the long walk is that once Spot sees the pattern, she will have something to look forward to when you leave. And the exercise will be great for both of you.
With these tools, you should be well on your way to boosting Spot's self-confidence. With enough time and patience you can teach Spot that you love her just as much as she loves you. Eventually she will realize that you won't leave her, and that destroying your house may not be the best way to tell you she misses you. Don't be afraid to seek professional help. Ask your veterinarian for suggestions, or if the problem persists, ask your veterinarian to recommend a behavior specialist. Chances are both you and your dog will benefit from some one-on-one guidance. Together, you can transform her anxious love and your tattered home into a secure peace you both can enjoy.
Does your pooch bury his head into your side every time it thunders out? Does he dive under the bed whenever rain starts to fall. From your point of view, this may seem like cute and endearing behavior, but it's a sign that your dog is terrified of storms. Some owners are willing to simply put up with symptoms of storm phobias like hiding, trembling, whining, drooling, and pacing. In more severe cases, however, panicking dogs have been known to chew furniture, tear drapes, break windows, and more during thunderstorms. In either case, the behavior is a sign of a terrified, unhappy dog.
Causes
Storm phobias are one of the most common behavioral problems dog owners face, but their cause is not entirely clear. Behaviorists are not yet sure what part of the storm frightens dogs most, whether they're reacting to lightning flashes, the sound of thunder, wind blowing around the house, or the sound of rain on the roof. Some dogs even start to pace and whine half an hour or more before a storm. They may be reacting to a sudden drop in air pressure or the electrical charge of the air.
Nature or nurture?
An article in the July/August 2001 issue of the Journal of the American Animal Hospital Association describes an Internet survey of the owners of storm-phobic dogs. The authors discovered that some breeds may be predisposed to a fear of storms. Herding dogs, such as collies and German shepherds, and hounds, such as beagles and basset hounds, seem to be more likely to develop a storm phobia than other dogs. The phobia is also common in sporting and working breeds. The study suggests that this tendency may be explained in terms of the dogs' genetics. For example, herding dogs have been bred to react quickly to stimuli, such as a calf wandering away from the herd, but not to be aggressive. It could be that herding dogs have a strong reaction to the startling noises and flashes of a storm, but they repress any aggressive response to it, causing anxiety.
The JAAHA study also showed that rescued dogs--dogs adopted from shelters or rescue organizations--may also be more likely to develop storm phobias. The article suggested that these dogs are more likely to have had unpleasant, scary experiences prior to being adopted. They may have been abused or abandoned by a former owner, or they may not have been well socialized or exposed to a wide variety of sights and sounds. These kinds of early-life experiences can make dogs more anxious and prone to all kinds of phobias.
What to do
Your best bet for helping your pup overcome his thunderstorm fears is to talk to your veterinarian. He or she can help you develop a program to gradually retrain your scaredy dog by gradually, gently helping him adjust to storms through behavior modification. Technically called "systematic desensitization," this involves exposing the storm-phobic dog to some gentle reminders of a thunderstorm, such as a very soft tape recording of thunder or a flashing light, and rewarding the dog with lots of treats, attention, and other positive reinforcement only if there's no evidence of anxiety. Over time, the intensity of the stimulus is increased, and only calm behavior rewarded. You should get profession guidance, either from a veterinarian or a veterinary behavior specialist, before you begin this process, however. If you introduce frightening stimuli too quickly or don't see signs of fear your dog may be showing, you could possibly end up making the phobia worse.
If gentle, patient retraining doesn't help your pooch, there are some prescriptions that can. Your veterinarian can prescribe one of several anti-anxiety or antidepressant medications to help your dog remain calm during storms. You can also make sure your dog has a warm, safe "den" to retreat to when the weather gets too scary. You can try padding a crate with blankets or clearing a space underneath your bed. Just make sure that it's somewhere your pup can get out of whenever he wants. A panicked dog can do a lot of damage to his crate and himself if he's confined.
Most important, though, is that your treat your dog gently and kindly when he is afraid. Don't cuddle and reassure him, because that will reward his scaredy-dog behavior, but definitely don't punish him for it either. Instead, just be calm and provide him with a safe, familiar place where he can feel secure and ride out the storm.
Crate training is an excellent way to teach your dog good behavior, as well as give your dog his own space. Benefits of crate training include:
Prevents damage to your furniture and other household valuables while you are away or sleeping
Helps you teach your dog proper chewing and elimination (bathroom) behavior
Provides security for your dog and safety for young children in your home
Easy traveling
Improves your relationship with your dog
Before you begin crate training, keep in mind that the crate should be large enough for your dog to stand up and turn around in. Pet stores carry many different sizes of crates so you can find the one that best fits your dog. You should place the crate in a room where there is activity, i.e. your family room, because dogs are social animals. Finally, the crate should be used as your pet’s retreat, or “sanctuary” — it should not be used for punishment. Use the crate to avoid problems such as chewing and jumping before they occur, and use a separate space if you wish to put your dog in “time out.”
Crate Training Puppies
Begin crate training with your puppy early in the day so he has the whole day to adapt to the crate. Place his favorite treats, toys or food in the crate to motivate him to enter the crate on his own. The first time you confine your puppy to the crate he should be ready to take a nap, so schedule this for after a play or exercise session and after he has gone to the bathroom. Leave the room but stay close enough to be able to hear him. It is normal for your puppy to cry or whine at first, but never reward him by letting him out when he cries. It may be difficult, but you must ignore his cries until they stop before you release him from the crate.
If your puppy does not quiet down on his own, you may try lightly scolding him, but be sure not to scold him excessively. Harsh scolding could lead to fear and anxiety, and exacerbate the crying or cause your puppy to soil the crate. Be sure to stay out-of-sight when scolding your puppy so he doesn’t learn to associate the correction with your presence. Try squirting him with a water sprayer or shake a can with pebbles or coins to interrupt his cries.
Crate Training Adult Dogs
Except for the introduction of your dog to his crate, crate training an adult dog is similar to crate training a puppy. Set up your dog’s crate in his feeding area and leave the door open for a few days. Place food, treats and toys in the crate so the dog is motivated to enter on his own. Close the crate door only after your dog fully enters the crate on his own.
As with puppies, your dog may cry or whine at first. Use the same correction methods given for training puppies with your dog. Gradually increase the amount of time that your dog must remain quiet in the crate before you release and reward him.
Training Older Pets
Whether you have recently adopted an older pet, or have given up trying to correct your pet's bad habits, it is not too late to teach him good manners. From housebreaking to digging and chewing, the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) offers tips on how to train your problem pooch or contrary kitty.
"Consistency and positive reinforcement are the key to training a pet of any age," says Link Welborn, DVM, AAHA past president. "In fact, older pets may be easier to train than puppies and kittens because they have a longer attention span."
Housebreaking should be a breeze for older pets who have less urgency problems and better control. Keep a close eye on your dog or confine him to a specific area while indoors, then take him out to the same place every time to do his business. Use consistent encouragement and give him plenty of praise afterward. Housebreaking your newly adopted cat will be easier if you use the same brand of litter that she previously used.
Food treats and positive reinforcement will help your pet learn basic commands such as "sit," "stay" and "come." Plan your commands ahead of time and make sure that everyone in your household uses the same commands so your pet doesn't get confused. Say the command once and then physically put your pet in the position you want him in if he doesn't obey.
Toys aren't just for puppies and kittens. Older pets also need stimulating toys and plenty of exercise to prevent them from digging and chewing out of boredom. Chewing in kittens is common, but they usually outgrow it. Consult your veterinarian if your older cat is still chewing; she may need medication in addition to training. Keeping a close watch over your pet so he doesn't have an opportunity to misbehave and using consistent praise to reinforce good behavior should eliminate most behavior problems.
The key to any training regimen is consistent, positive reinforcement of the desired behavior rather than punishment. Never physically punish a pet; this may lead to biting out of fear, or other aggressive behavior. Instead, use praise and attention as a reward when the desired behavior is exhibited and ignore inappropriate behavior.
If your pet continues to display unwanted behaviors despite your best efforts, visit your veterinarian to discuss the problem. The veterinarian will examine your pet to rule out anything medical that could be causing or contributing to the behavior, as well as provide advice and additional resources to help solve the problem. Your veterinarian can also refer you to a behavior specialist.
Congratulations on your new puppy! Now that you have your new furry friend, are you wondering how to housebreak him or her? Don’t despair! Housetraining your new puppy can be relatively easy and very successful if you devote the appropriate time and patience. A successful puppy training plan includes supervision, confinement and plenty of encouragement.
Elimination
Your first task will be to teach your puppy where you want him to eliminate (go to the bathroom) by accompanying him every time he goes outside. Select a specific area where you want him to go that is easy to get to, i.e., close to the door! Your puppy will become familiar with this place as he recognizes his odor from previous eliminations. You should gently praise his sniffing and other pre-elimination behaviors. Make sure to energetically praise your puppy after he eliminates in the proper area.
Mealtimes
You can help control your puppy’s elimination routine by also controlling his feeding schedule. Most puppies should eliminate within an hour after eating, so it is best to avoid feeding him a large meal right before confinement. You should offer him food two or three times each day at the same times and only make the food available for a maximum of 30 minutes. Your puppy’s last meal of the day should be finished between three and five hours before bedtime so he has plenty of time for elimination.
Make sure to take your puppy outside for elimination after eating, drinking, sleeping or playing. Develop a schedule of mealtimes, play sessions, confinement periods (for sleeping or rest) and trips outside to the “bathroom” to adjust your puppy to a fairly predictable elimination schedule.
Prevent Mistakes
You’ll find the most challenging part of housetraining your puppy is preventing accidents indoors. To avoid this, you need to constantly supervise your puppy. When you are not able to directly supervise your puppy, confine him to a small, safe area. Always take him outside to eliminate just before you confine him. You may want to use a wire or plastic crate to confine your puppy when you can’t directly supervise him (see the article Crate Training).
If you are leaving your puppy home alone every day for long periods, you may want to confine him in a larger area such as a small room. This area should be large enough for your puppy to eliminate, if necessary, and lay down several feet away from the mess. Place newspaper at the places where your puppy is likely to eliminate.
Help your puppy become comfortable in his confinement area by playing with him there or simply being in the room with him while he rests.
Correcting Mistakes
Most importantly, be prepared for your puppy to make mistakes! No puppy has ever been housetrained without making a few mistakes. Punishing your puppy is the least effective way to correct his behavior. When your puppy has an accident and you catch him in the act of eliminating indoors, you should correct him with a mild, startling distraction, such as clapping or shaking a can containing a few pebble or coins, and then immediately take him outside to finish eliminating.
Correcting your puppy more than a few moments after he eliminates is ineffective because he will not understand why he is being corrected. And if you are too harsh with your correction, you will teach your puppy not to eliminate in front of you, even when you are outside. This harsh punishment could damage your bond with him. Never rub your puppy’s nose in his mess – you will only teach him to be afraid of you.
Some pets who “squirt” or urinate when they greet people may do so out of nervousness or excitement and scolding will always make the problem worse. Rather, do not greet your pet right away. Ignore the pet until he settles down and then greet him.
If (and when) your puppy has accidents inside your home, he may continue to eliminate at the same spot if he can smell the odor from his previous mistake. Use an effective commercial product to remove urine and fecal odor from the spot so he is less likely to return to this area.
If your puppy continues to eliminate in certain areas of your home, do not give him access to these areas by closing doors, using baby gates or moving pieces of furniture over the soiled areas. Many pets will not eliminate in areas where they eat, play or rest, so try placing food or water bowls, beds and toys in areas where they have previously soiled to discourage future elimination.
Housetraining your puppy can be a rewarding and bonding experience for both you and your puppy. Be sure to contact your veterinarian with any questions or concerns you may have during this important training process.
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Did you come into this world with knowledge about vacuum cleaners, car rides, bicycles, animals and other people? Probably not! Like humans, puppies don’t enter the world knowing about people or the world in which we all live. You need to teach your puppy about the things, people and other animals in his environment or he may grow up to be a fearful, anxious and/or antisocial dog.
Socialize Early
You should begin socializing your pup as soon as you get him because his first few months of life are the most crucial for his development. Start slowly with quiet one-on-one interactions and work your way up to interaction with multiple people in more noisy environments. You shouldn’t have trouble finding friends, relatives and their pets who will want to come to your home to meet and play with your new puppy!
When, according to your veterinarian, your puppy is sufficiently vaccinated, take him on as many walks and outings as possible. However, avoid areas that may be high risk for disease such as parks or neighborhoods with stray dogs. Your veterinarian may be able to provide advice on areas to avoid.
To encourage your puppy to interact with other pets and people, reward him with a small treat whenever he meets a new friend. If he seems particularly fearful or cautious when introduced to new people, animals or situations, start with mild exposure and only reward him for non-fearful responses.
Variety is the Spice of Life
To fully socialize your puppy, make sure that he meets a variety of people of all ages and appearances. If your puppy only encounters people of a certain age or appearance (for example, adult men without facial hair) he may show aggression or fear if later introduced to people who appear or act different (for example, female children or men with facial hair).
Puppy Classes
Taking your puppy to training classes is a great way to socialize him with other dogs. However, make sure to choose a class that doesn’t promote punishment, such as swatting, hitting his nose or rubbing his face in a mess. This type of physical discipline can have a negative effect on your puppy’s good people skills. Ask your veterinarian about appropriate classes near you.
You will find that proper socialization and development of your puppy’s disposition will take time and patience, but your efforts will be worthwhile as you become the proud parent of a friendly companion.
The Humane Society of the United States and the United States Postal Service offer these tips on preventing dog bites.
How can I avoid being bitten by a dog?
Never approach a strange dog, especially one who's tied up or confined behind a fence or in a car.
Don't pet a dog, even your own, without letting him or her see and sniff you first.
Never turn your back to a dog and run away. A dog's natural instinct is to chase and catch fleeing prey.
Don't disturb a dog while he or she is sleeping, eating, chewing on a toy, or caring for puppies.
Be cautious around strange dogs. Always assume that a dog who doesn't know you may see you as an intruder or as a threat.
What should I do if I think a dog may attack?
Never scream and run. Remain motionless, hands at your sides, and avoid eye contact with the dog.
Remain motionless with your hands at your sides until the dog loses interest in you, then slowly back away until he or she is out of site.
If the dog does attack, "feed" him or her your jacket, purse, or anything that you can put between yourself and the dog.
If you fall or are knocked to the ground, curl into a ball with your hands over your ears and remain motionless. Try not to scream or roll around.
Aggressive dogs may exhibit only threats such as growling, posturing or snapping, but aggression often includes a serious bite to a human. There are many causes of aggression in dogs:
Agonistic: Personality conflict between two dogs without another cause.
Barrier Frustration: A barrier (for example, the dog is tied up) causes frustration. The dog can't escape, so it attacks.
Competitive: Housemate dogs who fight, usually over social status.
Displaced: The aggressive intent was redirected from one target to another.
Dominance aggression: The dog mistakenly thinks he runs the house and reacts to a conflict situation with a known family member by turning aggressive.
Drug-induced: While on certain medications, a dog's perceptions may be affected and cause aggression.
Encephalopathic: Aggression caused by a medical condition in the brain (for example, epilepsy).
Fear-induced aggression: A dog that growls or snaps when afraid thinks he is fighting for his life. Because of a combination of genetic tendencies, early experience and sometimes abuse, a dog with this type of aggression that cannot escape when cornered will attack. During the growling, snapping or attack, the dog shows fear postures such as crouching with its tail between its legs.
Food guarding: The dog has the mistaken idea that people take food instead of give it.
Improper socialization: The dog may have been isolated as a puppy and socially stunted, causing aggression.
Intra-sex: Female dogs who fight only female dogs, or male dogs who fight only male dogs.
Irritable: This type of aggression is due to a medical problem that lowers a dog's aggression threshold.
Maternal protective: This type of accression occurs in females when their young are present.
Owner protective: While this type of aggression is sometimes appropriate, some dogs may display aggression inappropriately in this role.
Pack response: Dogs act differently when in a group. Some may show aggression when in a group.
Pain-induced: This is a reflex aggression designed to relieve pain.
Play escalation: Some aggression starts as play such as roughhousing, and may escalate to aggression.
Possessive: Aggression associated with possessing toys or stolen non-food objects.
Territorial: The dog may display aggression in conjunction with inappropriate guarding of an area, such as the owner's home.
Trained: Some dogs are trained to bite people and may become confused and mistakenly show aggression or bite a person when not instructed to.
Unintentionally learned: Some people pet an aggressive dog to try to calm him. This action is understood by the pet as positive reinforcement or praise of the aggressive behavior so the behavior continues.
The most important step is to determine the cause of aggression. If there is any medical condition present, it might contribute indirectly to lowering the threshold for aggression. Your veterinarian can work with you to determine the cause of your pet's aggression and recommend appropriate treatment and training.
From the healthypet.com
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